Across the East River 🔴 : CHR’s NYFW Radar | September 9–15, 2026

New York Fashion Week officially runs September 10–15, with roughly 70 runway shows and presentations, while Ralph Lauren, Coach, Rachel Comey, Cult Gaia and others begin the action on September 9.

This season mixes legacy American houses, returning New York labels and a particularly interesting class of emerging designers.

For CHR, there’s no reason to reproduce the entire calendar.

Radar should filter NYFW through the things we actually care about: movement, construction, nightlife, street culture, material intelligence, sensuality and recognizable design identity.

01. 🔴 CHR RADAR PICK

Public School New York

Thursday, September 10 | 8 PM runway

This is probably the single show I’d watch most closely through a Crown Heights Radio lens. Public School sits near the intersection of New York streetwear, sportswear, tailoring, youth culture and urban uniform. It appears on the official 2026 NYFW calendar, with the current schedule listing its runway Thursday evening.

The useful CHR question is not whether to imitate Public School. It’s how a New York label can make relatively familiar categories feel culturally specific through proportion, styling, layering and attitude.

CHR watch: silhouette recognition, utility, restrained graphics, outerwear, city-to-night styling.

02. RUNWAY PICK

Diane von Furstenberg × Henry Zankov

Thursday, September 10 | 9:30 AM

Henry Zankov opens the official week with his debut as artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg, also marking DVF’s first runway return since 2017.

DVF already owns enormously recognizable codes. Zankov’s job is not to erase them but to make them feel alive again.

CHR watch: recognizable codes evolving without becoming nostalgic.

03. RETAIL PICK

Calvin Klein Collection

Friday, September 11 | 3 PM runway

Calvin Klein Collection lands Friday afternoon on the current schedule. (Fashion Week Official)

For CHR, I’d study this one from almost the opposite direction of the spectacle shows.

How little can a garment say while still feeling expensive, deliberate and sensual?

CHR watch: restraint, negative space, body/fabric relationship, finishing and proportion.

04. THE DESIGN PICK

Conner Ives

Saturday, September 12 | 12:30 PM runway

Conner Ives makes his first NYFW appearance after usually showing in London. His recent collections have combined upcycling, vintage materials, party dressing, sports references and a distinctly high-low approach.

Ives demonstrates that sustainability doesn’t have to visually announce itself as “sustainable fashion.” The result can simply look desirable.

CHR watch:reclaimed-material sophistication, sports references, nightlife styling and transforming familiar garments into something culturally fresh.

05. FANTASY PICK

Area

Sunday, September 13 | 11 AM runway

Area starts Sunday’s runway stretch.

This is the fantasy end of the CHR spectrum.

Area can teach us about body architecture, visual impact and the point at which a garment becomes an event.

For CHR, the interesting exercise is subtraction:

What can we borrow from spectacle after removing the spectacle?

Maybe it’s a shoulder line. A cutout. Tension around the body. Placement of shine. The relationship between skin and structure.

CHR watch:body architecture, controlled drama, nightlife and stage presence.

Two very important ones just beyond this week's normal Radar window

Diotima

Monday, September 14 | 4 PM

This might be the most philosophically CHR-relevant collection of the entire week.

Rachel Scott’s Diotima combines sculptural tailoring with intricate knit and crochet work, with Caribbean identity and craft embedded deeply into the label’s design language. Its previous spring runway explored Carnival as procession, resistance, joy and sensuality rather than simply treating Caribbean culture as surface decoration.

Craft + Caribbean culture + sensuality + structure + movement = extremely high CHR relevance.

LaQuan Smith

Monday, September 14 | 9 PM

LaQuan Smith is the other one I wouldn't let disappear just because it falls on Monday night.

This is worth watching specifically through CHR's nightlife-polish lens: how body-conscious clothing communicates sex appeal, confidence and occasion without becoming costume.

And then Tuesday brings Collina Strada at noon, another useful sustainability and culture signal.

🎟️ BEST PUBLIC-FACING NYFW PICK

eBay × CFDA: Endless Runway — The Archive

Wednesday, September 9 | 7:30 PM ET livestream

This one deserves inclusion even though it sits outside NYFW.com’s runway schedule.

Carlos Nazario has curated more than 150 rare and archival American fashion pieces, spanning 1970s glamour, American sportswear, ’90s minimalism and grunge through contemporary New York fashion. Pieces come from Calvin Klein, DVF, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, Vera Wang, Willy Chavarria and others. Jenna Lyons hosts the live auction.

For CHR, this is almost a free masterclass in:

Which design ideas survive time?

That question may be more useful than identifying Spring 2027's trend color.

CHR Radar says:Trend tells you what happened this season. Archive tells you what survived it.

ACROSS THE EAST RIVER: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

We usually keep our eyes on Brooklyn.

This week, fashion gives us a reason to look across the river.

New York Fashion Week returns September 10–15 with American institutions, returning New York labels and a class of designers challenging what American fashion can look like next.

We're not trying to watch everything.

We're watching what matters to us.

Public School for the New York uniform.
DVF × Zankov for the evolution of recognizable brand codes.
Calvin Klein for restraint.
Conner Ives for materials and reinvention.
Area for the body as architecture.

And just beyond the weekend, Diotima for the place where craft, Caribbean culture, sensuality and movement meet.

Sometimes Radar means discovering something underground.

Sometimes it means looking at the biggest stage in town and asking a smaller question:

What can we learn from it?

Crown Heights Radio curates the music, DJs, fashion, art, nightlife, movement and cultural scenes worth knowing in Miami and Brooklyn. New Radar picks every week.

Marshall Moore

DJ, Producer, artist, Designer, Consultant

https://Sohodutch.com
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CHR Radar Brooklyn: NYFW, Textiles + Soca Style | Sept. 7–13